Lisbon in general
As it is the end of the year, I didn’t expect myself to fly again during the last 2 week of 2005. Initially, I suggested a short trip to Vienna or Copenhagen, where both traditionally famous for Christmas markets and cold weather, however they were both rejected by Johannes. It was him who came out with the idea to go to Lisbon, to catch the winter sun. Also thanks to the availability of KLM award tickets to make this trip possible. I have never been to Portugal before and therefore did not know what to expect. It was a bit stressful to rush read Lonely Planet to get myself orientated and also to gain some information about the city and the country.
In summary, there were mixed thoughts about this city – a kind of love hate relationship. Firstly for sure, Portuguese doesn’t really welcome tourists (at least us). Secondly it is a rather laidback and rustic city. I had a strong feeling that people here still lived in their past glories, even though it was a long past history. There is a missing population at the age groups of 30s to 50s.
I did a quick research about Fado, the famous music from Portugal. Fado is a music genre which most likely originated in the 1820s in Portugal. It is characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea or the life of the poor. The music is usually linked to the Portuguese word ‘saudade’, a word with no accurate English translation; it is a type of longing, and conveys a complex mixture of sadness, pain, nostalgia, happiness and love). I think the description of Fado perfectly depict my impression about Portugal and its people.
Despites of all these, I thanked God for a wonderful winter sun break; the weather was sunny throughout our time there. The seafood was excellence and also the arts and museums were great. This is my well deserved winter holiday.
20 Dec 2005
First attempt to the old town, took Metro to Baixa-Chiado, and walked to Pc do Comércio. The late lunch by the Pc do Comercio was great. I ordered grilled squids and it was delicious! Perhaps the location is next to the ministry office, the price is expensive by Portuguese standard, though it is still relatively less expensive than Holland.
After the lunch we took a tram west bound to Belem. As the journey west bound, the city becomes even poorer, a sense of insecurity hit me, but suddenly we were welcome by Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jeronimos Monastery) next to us. It is a massive and impressive building now protected by UNESCO.
We walked through the park and Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries) is standing in front of us along the River Tegu, accompanied by April 25 Bridge from a distance. The bridge reminded me of the golden gate in San Francisco, although I believe this is much longer one.
As the sun already set in, we only embraced of Torre de Belém (Belem Tower) from a distance.
Pasterie de Belem - ala Portugese Egg Tart, it is a very familiar snack to those who live in Hong Kong. I still prefer the taste of authentic Hong Kong Egg Tart.
21 Dec 2005
After the breakfast, we took a nice walk from our hotel to Calauste Gulbenkian Museum. The museum is situated in a park. The collections in the museum were impressive. It is hard for me to imagine a single person to own all these collections. I personally like the porcelains and carpet collections. The café annexed to the museum is an oasis in the city; I could feel the serenity of mind while sipping my cappuccino.
After the break, on our way back to hotel, we unintentionally passed Parc Edcador VII. It is another oasis in the city center that resembled a mini version of Central Park in New York City.
22 Dec 2005
This morning we set off to National Glazed Tile Museum (Mesue Nacional do Azulejo). It is located at the Eastern side of Lisbon. There are plenty of tiles display ranging from different century and originated from different places such as Seville, Turkey Ottoman kingdom and etc.
For some reason, I am deeply attracted by tiles. I like the colorful patterns which often brighten up my mood. The tiles are like the paintings, there are a few master pieces that depict the past Portuguese’s Glory as ruthless seafarers.
After the museum, we took a bus to city center, the bus ended at Plaza do Commercial. Then we took a tram to St. George’s Castle (Castelo de S. Jorge), it was about mid afternoon. The sky was clear and the wind was still. The up bound journey to Castelo reminded me very much of Hong Kong Central mid-level. The roads are narrow, winding and yet steep. We dropped off somewhere with the observation platform. Here, you can view the entire harbor and river Tegu clearly. On the clear find day, the bridge and the Cristo Rej are clearly visible from this platform. Also around this area, I finally found my beloved tiled walls. Most of the tiled walls already faded away; perhaps they couldn’t fight against the time or stand the weather. However, I believe each tiled wall has a story to tell, and perhaps many are untold story. I just love them and appreciate them as a piece of living arts. Posing and taking photo in front of these colorful tiled walls are such an enjoyment and pleasure.
St. George’s Castle is also a massive monument. Once an important and strategic fortress for Lisbon now left with ruins. I wondered if the earthquake has done any damage to it at all.
Today, we also found the tiles for our house in the Netherlands. I finally found the small tiles with made up ‘BETHEL’. We hopped into a very small and interesting family run café for lunch. The interior is the mix of north, east, south and west, ranging from India to Africa and sense of China to bold color glass. After the lunch we continued our down hill walk, it was interesting and for once I thought I was in Hong Kong, and as if I was walking from Kennedy town to Mid-level through Boham road and at the junction there stands a church. Of course, I know I am in a different land, a land full of past glories and history.
Tonight, we decided to eat in and had dinner at the tower restaurant of Sheraton Hotel. We had the whole city view in front of our eyes; Lisbon by night is so different by day. The night also concluded our trip to Lisbon as we bid farewell the next day and return to Holland for Christmas.
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